Simplicity 1873+1610 and Vianne – a late oal2015 outfit

I wanted to take part in the OAL this year and I actually managed to finish the cardigan on time but not the dress, which is surprising considering the amount of time needed for each.

My gauge was spot on for the cardigan, but I made a mistake I no longer make when sewing – I knit it in size M, based on my bust measurement. Therefore the cardigan is big at the shoulders and the sleeves are too wide.

For the dress I used Simplicity 1873 on top and 1610 on the bottom. I’ve made the 1610 dress before and I love that skirt – perfect pockets that stay in place and are better located than in-seam pockets (they look better too imo), plus the width of the skirt feels just right for me.

I don’t love the top though. I tried Nancy Zieman’s pivot an slide method (see video at the end) and started with size 10 based on my front shoulder measurement. I had to add quite a lot of width at the bust and waist and I’m afraid that distorted the overall shape. The top has a lot of ease above and below the bust at the sides, but at least the armhole doesn’t gape. I made a muslin and made a few other changes to the pattern after that – moved the front waist dart a few cm to the side, lowered the bust dart and removed a 1.5cm wedge for sway back. One other alteration I meant to do but somehow forgot was to add length at center front. This is not mentioned in the video but it makes sense to add some space vertically too. I did squeeze a little bit of length by reducing the seam allowance, but that was not enough and I think the proportions are off because of the bodice length. It is just too short.

Modified pattern before muslin

Front view – the too short and boxy bodice is obvious here. And notice the green on green – this is why my other pictures are inside even though it was a beautiful sunny day.

Even though I moaned all through this post, I don’t dislike and the dress and I will continue to wear it. It’s not perfect and I hope all my future projects turn out better than this, but sometimes less than perfect is enough. At least from some angles.

 

Since I made this I bought Nancy Zieman’s pattern fitting book, I’m not giving up on her method yet. It looks easier than other I’ve seen/tried, I hope I can make it work.

Simplicity 1610 – a Christmas dress

This was going to be my Christmas dress. Early in December last year I’ve found this fabric on ebay, immediately bought it and then stumbled upon a lovely kitty dress. Fabric aside (gorgeous but sold out everywhere), I loved the skirt pattern – pleated, not too full and inset pockets.

It’s been too long since I started working on it, so I don’t remember why I jumped at changing the pattern so much without making a muslin first. I probably based my actions on measuring the pattern.

I started out tracing size 12 – the biggest in the range I had and made quite a generous FBA. You can see that I added half of it at center front and half in the side panel.

I’ve shortened the bodice 1/2″ above the bust, something I’ve done a lot in the past but I’m starting to question that alteration. It worked in the past but now it seems unnecessary, maybe because I put on some weight and I need more fabric in that area?

I removed a wedge form the front neckline to compensate for the width added at CF and I guess that’s causing all the drag lines radiating from my neck. I didn’t take a picture of the pattern after that, but you can see it in this photo evidence of my son helping me out.

I know I say it every time, but he must have been a cat in a past life. I had 3 cats before and all of them loved to mess with my fabric on the floor. It was easier with cats, I can’t lock my son in the hallway while I’m cutting 😀

Ok, so how did all these changes work out? BAD! I had to try the bodice several times and adjust the princess seams. The curve on the seams was too high on my bust and I had to take in a lot. Clearly, I went a bit overboard with my FBA.

So I had this done before Christmas, it only needed a zip, hem and bindings, but I didn’t have energy to finish it. Then we had guests until the new year. Then I started to question my choice of fabric – I was worried the fabric was too stiff (wax print) for that skirt and I will loo like a big red and yellow pouf. Until this weekend when I decided to finish some of my UFOs before they get out of hand. And I’m so happy I did! I think the skirt looks great. It holds its shape due to the stiffness of the fabric, but is not too full.

Let’s talk about print placement. I don’t remember thinking about anything else than “keep the rows even front to back”, and I did that. Horses are on the same level across both sides of skirt and bodice and are consistently running up or down. But the fact that the horse are running just above and not exactly on my bosom it’s pure luck. It would’ve been more lucky if the horses weren’t legs up, but we can’t have it all, can we?

These shoes make me look like I’m wearing size 11 and they are size 3! Not that’s something wrong with size 11, but with my height I’d look like a right isosceles triangle 🙂

Do you have any unfinished projects? Do you get excited about new projects and start everything, or are you disciplined and always finish one before starting another?