IAM Patterns Artemis

20171029_074939_2.png

I bought the fabric and pattern for this one about  a month ago at the GBSB live. I rarely use a pattern/fabric so soon after buying, but this was quick to make and very seasonally appropriate so I tried really hard not to stash them.

The pattern didn’t really tempt me until I saw a picture of the longer version. It looked really warm and cosy in a nice woolly fabric.

artemis1artemis.png

After getting the pattern I looked for a boiled wool but ended up buying this wool knit, slightly felted, from Doughty’s. The label said 80% wool and it was £15, less than the 100% wool fabrics that went for ~£20/m. I chose this one for the colour, I love bottle green and it’s very easy to wear. The problem is the dye is not properly set and everything it touches gets green. I will try to wash it with some vinegar.

Going back to the pattern – the envelope was tricky to open. It’s a waxed paper on one side, glued to card on the other side. I didn’t find a way to open it nicely so I ripped the paper. I could’ve used the scissors I guess 🙂

Based on the size chart I should’ve went for size 42 but I cut 38 after measuring the pattern. I’m used to wearing more closely fitting clothes,. I’m not yet ready for the full on slouchy trend.

20171027_162727

20171027_162802

20171029_074944

I lengthen the original pattern by 30 cm.  For the front I added 10 cm above the pocket and 20 below. The higher pockets might be aesthetically pleasing, but I think they are more practical lower down so I can actually keep my hands in.

The pattern instructions say you need 3 yards for the short version, the long one isn’t included. I bought 3 meters (3.3 yards) and after making the coat 30 cm longer I have enough left for a knee length skirt. I think they are way too cautious with fabric requirements.

The pattern had a center back seam – maybe for stability, maybe for fabric layout. The instructions show the fabric folded cut sides together, not selvedge to selvedge – not sure why, the pieces would fit either way. My fabric was stable enough so I cut the back on fold so there’s no seam along center back.

The hems are overlocked and folded once to avoid bulk. The instructions ask you to fold twice which would work fine with a lighter fabric.

There was a seam allowance error at step 5 which I think was a typo – asking you to sew 1/8″ instead of 3/8″. It was only in the English version, I scratched my head reading it until I looked at the French version and noticed the difference. I sent a message to the designer so they might update it.

It’s a lovely coat and I’ve been wearing it a lot, I need to make sure I wash it again with some vinegar and only wear it over dark clothes for  a while.

20171029_075102

20171029_075056

 

I wore it to #sewbrum on Saturday but didn’t take any pictures. In fact, the only pictures I took that day was this one of a wall somewhere close to the train station.

20171028_113454

My shopping list for Saturday was short – sweatshirting and denim. I didn’t buy anything else, but I did get enough sweatshirt knit to last me a few years, all from Guthrie & Ghani. The selvedge denim is from Barry’s and the mustard/gold is from G&G.

20171030_134706.jpg

I was lucky again this year and won a prize in the raffle – a nice selection of crafty bits from Sew Crafty. Those doughnut weights look delicious.

IMG_20171028_214424

I had a great time on Saturday, #sewbrum is a lovely event, I think the way it’s organised  with coffee first, shopping after and then more socialising at Guthrie & Ghani makes it easy to make new sewing friends.

Advertisements

McCalls 6996 and Burda 7105 – a resurrection

7 months ago I got a brand new sewing machine with all the bells and whistles, I was ready for SWAP 2016, when sloth took over. I was pregnant, tired and at the end of the day I only had enough energy to move from the sofa to the bed. I took a break until spring when after a couple of maternity sewing failures I stocked up on maternity patterns.

I started with a Burda 7105 skirt which, to my surprise, was a great success.

7105_esb_1

When I saw it I thought the belly band at least would be cut out of something with some stretch. But no, they instruct you to cut the band from the same fabric as the rest of the skirt and the pattern recommends ‘light wools’ and stretch fabric for the trousers only. I was worried the skirt won’t fit for long with a rigid interfaced (!) yoke but 3 months later it still does.

fusta1

March vs June

fusta2

After making the skirt I took another long break until the last couple of weeks. I started with a soft bra which is cut and patiently awaiting to be sewn. I made a pair of Burda mag pyjama shorts (documented on Instagram) and a cardigan. Noting maternity specific, I plan to wear all of them for a long time.

The cardigan is McCalls 6996. It looked pretty relaxed, not in a slouchy way and I thought there’s not much that could go wrong with it. I cut an M and didn’t make any alterations to the pattern.  Looking at the pictures, I shouldn’t have skipped moving the shoulder seam forwards.

The hem is curved so I carefully marked, pressed and hand basted it before sewing. When I saw the picture on the left I couldn’t believe it’s so ripply. But then I realised I forgot to press it after sewing (LOL). Problem solved, now I have a perfectly flat hem!

cardiganspate

BUT I might need to do the hemming again. I think the combination of colour, length and slightly baggy shoulders make this cardigan look very outdated (me being in desperate need of a haircut doesn’t help either). So my next project is to shorten it by 6 inches, that would suit me a lot better.

There’s a month to go until baby arrives and I think I will at least finish the bra until then AND make a summer dress. I will have a couple of weeks off work so I might do even more!

Simplicity 1873+1610 and Vianne – a late oal2015 outfit

I wanted to take part in the OAL this year and I actually managed to finish the cardigan on time but not the dress, which is surprising considering the amount of time needed for each.

My gauge was spot on for the cardigan, but I made a mistake I no longer make when sewing – I knit it in size M, based on my bust measurement. Therefore the cardigan is big at the shoulders and the sleeves are too wide.

For the dress I used Simplicity 1873 on top and 1610 on the bottom. I’ve made the 1610 dress before and I love that skirt – perfect pockets that stay in place and are better located than in-seam pockets (they look better too imo), plus the width of the skirt feels just right for me.

I don’t love the top though. I tried Nancy Zieman’s pivot an slide method (see video at the end) and started with size 10 based on my front shoulder measurement. I had to add quite a lot of width at the bust and waist and I’m afraid that distorted the overall shape. The top has a lot of ease above and below the bust at the sides, but at least the armhole doesn’t gape. I made a muslin and made a few other changes to the pattern after that – moved the front waist dart a few cm to the side, lowered the bust dart and removed a 1.5cm wedge for sway back. One other alteration I meant to do but somehow forgot was to add length at center front. This is not mentioned in the video but it makes sense to add some space vertically too. I did squeeze a little bit of length by reducing the seam allowance, but that was not enough and I think the proportions are off because of the bodice length. It is just too short.

Modified pattern before muslin

Front view – the too short and boxy bodice is obvious here. And notice the green on green – this is why my other pictures are inside even though it was a beautiful sunny day.

Even though I moaned all through this post, I don’t dislike and the dress and I will continue to wear it. It’s not perfect and I hope all my future projects turn out better than this, but sometimes less than perfect is enough. At least from some angles.

 

Since I made this I bought Nancy Zieman’s pattern fitting book, I’m not giving up on her method yet. It looks easier than other I’ve seen/tried, I hope I can make it work.

I will never be cold again – Old Romance and other knits

Old Romance was released in March and as soon as I saw it I wanted to make it. I bought the pattern, but as it usually happens, it got stuck in my knitting queue. Then at the end of July a Joji Fall knit along was announced and I decided to join. The cast on date was August 1st and we had 3 months to finish. That seamed reasonable and indeed I was able to finish on time.

Ignore the squinty  eyes here

I bought the yarn on eBay, it’s a lambswool/silk mix, a little scratchy but not too bad. I can wear this cardigan a whole day without any problem. And it was a bargain at £3/100g. I recently bought some merino from the same shop and it’s very soft and nice.

Following the knit along, I discovered/remembered a few techniques. The first one is one that I used before, but forgot about it – twin stitch short rows, aka shadow wraps – they are invisible. I always had little holes when I used the wrap and turn method.

Next one is Russian grafting technique – joining live stitches with a crochet hook. It’s not invisible like kitchener, it looks like a lovely braid.

And the last one is this extra stretchy, no flare bind off for ribbing, continental (Lori’s twisty bind off). I knit continental, but a different variation than Lori – it’s called Eastern uncrossed. In this variation some stitches sit differently on the needle, like they are twisted. Long story short, I didn’t used this bind off because I was to lazy to “translate” the method from standard continental to Eastern uncrossed, and using it as it was resulted in a very un-stretchy ribbing. But I would like to try it at some point.

 

And since I was in the knitting fever, I also made two hats – one for me and one for the boy.

no pattern – drops merino baby