Butterick 6385 – A coat for my sister

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I promised my sister a long time ago that I would make her a winter coat. She  visited for a week at the end of last month and I was prepared – I bought the pattern at the GBSB live event in September and ordered the fabric online right after the event. It’s a wool tweed in denim blue, very soft and snuggly.

We had quite a few days out during her stay, so I only had 3 days to make this for her.

Day 1  – muslin and cutting fabric

Day 2 – fusing interfacing on all pieces and starting sewing. Fusing took soooooo looong, but the fabric was a bit too soft and flimsy, it ended up looking so much better with a light knit interfacing backing.

Day 3 – finished sewing everything, including all hand stitching very late in the day.

Day 4 – ok, some work has been done on the 4th day. All the basting thread had to be taken out, but I was out to #sewbrum so my sister had to do that.

On day 5 my sister was leaving early in the morning, we took  some few quick pictures at the airport. I entered this coat in the Wool Coat contest on Pattern Review. The pictures are not good enough for a competition entry but there was no way I could get some better ones before the deadline.

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You can read the fitting/construction details over on Pattern Review.

I need a short break from sewing after the hectic #prsewingbee and making this coat in such a short time. I want to make a few pairs of jeans and some cosy sweatshirts, but I can’t get myself to start yet. I started a new knitting project and I’ll keep busy with that one for a while.

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Butterick 6183 – A complete outfit

I’ve started working on this pattern right after I finished my B6168 dress. I used size 14 for the dress and narrowed the shoulders in order to avoid a FBA, but since this pattern has different cup sizes, I cut a size 12 with a C cup for the top. Most reviews say the top is snug but mine came out roomier than expected and too wide at the shoulders, even though I used N. Zieman’s method of choosing the pattern size based on the front shoulder measurement. The reason? I didn’t measure myself correctly. Duh.

There’s just one alteration I’ve made to the top pattern – I shortened 2 cm above the waist. The CB length neck to waist was over 40cm, which is huge I think even for people with a standard height. Also, I didn’t use a zip, I just left the slit opened and added a button at the top. A button that is too big and heavy for this light viscose. Anyway, this top is going to the bin unfortunately. I finished the SAs with a pinking shears and they all got shredded in the washing machine. I’ll keep this in mind when I work with similar fabric. I plan to make more tops like this, but I’ll go down a size, make the sleeves 2-3 cm shorter and add 2-3 cm at the bottom.

The trousers are size 14 – I was worried they were going to be too small, so I used 1cm (3/8″) SA at the sides and lengthened the waistband. They didn’t look so wide from the top on the pattern cover, and they didn’t look so wide in the few reviews I’ve seen either. But they are. Loose from the hip to the ankle. I’m not complaining, I’ve been wearing them 3 times a week, they are very comfortable. I think they look better with a more fitted top, like the above Tonic that’s too tight to wear with anything else.

I found it odd that the pattern instructions didn’t say anything about interfacing the zip area or the pocket openings. I had to do that because the linen I used was very loosely woven, and my pockets are already gaping anyway. Some ribbon would’ve been even better. I added a snap to the waistband to help it keep it closed.

I have a few muslins cut out, but I didn’t feel very motivated to sew or knit lately. It;s probably the recent ‘tiny pocket tank’ fail and the lovey weather outside. Do you sew much during the summer? I’d surely need more dresses and airy tops but I don’t feel like staying inside.

Butterick 5605

Cam de doua luni incoace am lucrat intens la 2 proiecte – o rochie pentru mine si un sacou pentru Sebi. Ambele le-am planuit pentru o nunta la care am fost pe 8 iunie. Le-am terminat la limita.

Fundita de la spate m-a atras la tipar, problema e ca nu am cum s-o leg. Cand am purtat-o, am plecat cu un nod la spate, iar cand am ajuns la eveniment am rugat o domnisoara indemanatica sa ma ajute 🙂 (domnisoara indemanatica, daca citesi, trimite-mi pozele cu Sebi in sacou 🙂 )

Butterick 5605

Din pacate, camera mea foto a decis sa plece, nu stiu unde, probabil unde s-au dus si suzetele lui Sebi si nimeni nu le-a mai vazut de atunci. Asa ca va arat niste poze proaste, facute cu telefonul. Cine stie ce pauza as face pe blog daca as astepta sa gasesc camera 🙂

Butterick 5605

Butterick 5605

Am folosit tiparul Butterick 5605, pe care l-am cumparat mai la inceputul anului, nestiind exact cand o sa-l fac. Am scos marimea 12 dupa ce am masurat tiparul, pentru ca daca m-asi fi luat dupa recomandarile de pe plic ar fi trebuit sa scot 16 sau 18. Am facut o proba si a trebuit sa fac urmatoarele ajustari:

  • am scos 1 cm din talie
  • am cambrat putin, max 0,5 cm pe fiecare “princess seam” fata si spate
  • am eliminat cate 2 cm la centrul spatelui, exact unde se termina fermoarul; am trasat noua linie a spatelui de la acesti 2 cm mutati spre interior in partea de sus, pierdut spre talie, astfel incat talia sa ramana cu aceeasi dimensiune
  • Nu am dublat partea de sus, pentru ca materialul este gors; in schimb am facut dubluri (facings)
  • am scurtat fusta cu 15 cm.

Citisem cu putin timp in urma pe mai multe bloguri despre fermoare cusute de mana si am zis sa incerc si eu. Am folosit tutorialul lui Tasia (daca nu e nume romanesc, oare pot sa zic Tasiei?). A fost foarte usor de controlat materialul si de potrivit linia taliei si capetele de sus. Nu am o poza de aproape a spatelui, dar aceste linii sunt potrivite perfect :). Cred ca e mai greu sa potrivesti cand cosi de masina. Si in plus, mie imi place sa cos de mana, si pot coase si cand doarme Sebi. Cu masina mi-e teama sa nu-l trezesc.

Butterick 5605

Si inca un plus pentru fermoar cusut cu mana la acest model: cutele din talie la spate se intalnesc chiar pe linie de mijloc spate, stfel incat sa ascunda putin cusatura fermoarului. Daca as fi cusut fermoarul cu masina ar fi trebuit sa intrerup linia de coasere cand ajungeam la talie si sa o repornesc sub talie si in acelasi timp sub cute. Deci oricum ar fi trebuit sa cos de mana mai intai, ca sa nu trag aiurea de material cand ridicam pensele.

Butterick 6505

Fermoarul l-am cusut joi noapte, inainte de sambata cu nunta. Rochia intreaga, cu fermoar inclus am imbracat-o prima  data samabata, inainte sa plec la nunta :). Nu am avut chef inainte, si nu eram nici stresata de cum o sa vina pentru ca facusem mai intai o proba.Image

Una peste alta, rochia nu a fost foarte greu de cusut, desi imi era putin frica de punctele acelea ascutite de la bust de care se plangeau multe fete pe patternreview. Tot la ele am gasit instructiuni scrise si video foarte explicite.