B6178 and Burda 07/2015 #113

A couple of months back Marimekko did a line for Uniqlo and I loved their ‘tent’ tops.

 

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I wanted one but the M was too big and the S too small so I decided to make it myself. I got this Frida print from Fabrics Galore and used a Burda tank pattern. I closed the bust darts to get fullness at the hem but I’m not sure this is the right way to do it, most of the fullness is at the sides and the front hangs quite straight. Oh well, good enough.

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The culottes have been planned for  a while. I used facings instead of waistband (comfort level up!) and left the pockets as my fabric was too heavy and I didn’t have any matching lining.

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I made a flat seat adjustment and shortened the crocth by 1/2″. You can read a full review of the pattern on PR.

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I took them out to beautiful Winchester yesterday.

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A spotty JJ for PR sewing bee

A few weeks ago the new PR Sewing Bee contest was announced and I decided to join. I don’t remember why I didn’t enter last year, but I did watch it and it seemed like a lot of fun. Contests and challenges are big motivators for me, so this year I say ‘Bring it on!’

The first round challenge started yesterday and I did not expect a fitted blouse as the first project. They are supposed to get more complex every week, so I wonder – will a tailored jacket be the last challenge? 😀

I am going to make another BurdaStyle JJ – I’ve made it before and it fits nice. I am a little rounder than last time I made it, but I’ve made it with seam allowances a little larger than 5/8 last time and I am making it with 3/8 SA this time. There are 6 vertical seams adding up to a total difference of 3 inches, enough to fit with 1.5-2 inches of ease around the bust.

The fabric I chose is a very light satin backed silk crepe – it was a gift from a lovely friend I met online and then in real life (Servus, Olga!). I starched it to make cutting and sewing easier. It didn’t transform into quilting cotton, but it is easier to handle after starching. I don’t think the stand collar would look good in this fabric, I lowered the neckline and I will bound it with bias. The neckline is now 2 cm wider, 1 cm lower in the back and 11 cm lower in front. Somebody tried it before me successfully so I can be sure it will look nice.

I was going to make ‘real’ french seams, but I couldn’t sew the fabric with a narrow 1/4” seam allowance without it shifting under the presser foot. I am now slowly going through all the seams fake frenching them.

I want to have no visible seaming on the right side of the blouse, a lot more hand sewing will be needed  – fixing the bias on the back of the neckline, the same for sleeves (I’m not making cuffs) and invisible rolled hem. But I am on holiday and we have to stay around the house, so I have plenty of time for that.

The buttonholes will show though, not sure what I can do about that. I could’ve done loops, but I didn’t think of them early enough and now it’s too late. I have these dainty bobble buttons in red and light purple, I’m not sure which ones I’ll use yet. None of them matches perfectly, but there’s no way I can get to a haberdashery before the challenge closes. I might change them after.

Are you doing this? You can join anytime before the challenge closes on September 7th.

Am I too late for the hoot trend?

When I first started sewing more than 5 years ago, my main resource was BurdaStyle website. Lots and lots of sewing tips, tutorials and free patterns. I still have manyof them saved din my account, but I think this is the first time I’m making something with one of their patterns. (I don’t count a failed Kasia that I attempted as a first project)

The JJ blouse is a simple princess seams shirt with ruffles and puffed sleeves. I skipped the ruffles as my fabric is busy enough.

I’m usually a 38-40 but after measuring the pattern I decided to cut 36 and my seam allowances were a bit more than 5/8, so this pattern runs large.
I also removed 2 cm in length, one from the bust and another one from the waist. This is standard for me as I am petite.

I had the buttonholes made at DMButtons. Save yourself a headache and use them if you are in London. You could also send them your garment by post if you are in the UK. I paid 3 pounds for 8 buttonholes, and they were done in 2 minutes. Sewn, cut and ready to use. I’m never making buttonholes again!

What you see there is water. It was raining and I wiped that street light with my bum.

I bought the fabric at Saeed’s Fabrics in my only (so far) trip to Walthamstow market last year. I had only one meter, it was an impulse purchase as I loved the print too much but had no idea what to make with it. A month or so ago I saw that a fitted blouse contest was going to run on Pattern Review. I had the pattern (still free on BurdaStyle), I had the fabric, a contest was the motivation I needed to make something.

This is the first shirt I make and I love it! It’s not often that a project ends up better than I imagined 🙂 . I was feeling so smug I even tried the Rachel pose.

I won’t do it again. I promise!