Burda 08 2017 119

The 2009 august issue of Burda has been my all time favourite. I’ve used 4 of the patterns in it and there still are a few in my queue – 8(!) years later 😀

This year’s august issue is just as good – I made this dress and plan to make at least 2 more items in the near future – the petite blazer and the cowl jumper.

burda1

I always loved Burda’s puzzle dresses, this one and the other seamed dress in this issue are gorgeous, they really are something else.

backdress

The back is basic

The fabric is a ‘waffle wool’ as described on the Fabworks website, it feels really light and crisp, nothing like any other wool fabrics I’ve seen. The colour is really difficult to photograph, I’d say it’s in between the photos up here, not as cold as on the left but not as warm as on the right, and the photo on the Fabworks website is too dark.

After measuring the pattern I traced size 38 for shoulder, neckline and underarms and pivoted to 42 for bust, waist and skirt., keeping the size 38 length for the bodice. I made a muslin and was happy with the fit, I only shortened the bodice 1 cm above bust and raised the armhole one more cm. I also took off 15 cm off the skirt length.

I have a short torso and I usually shorten the patterns at least one inch above the waist. I think this might be too short on someone above average height.

My armholes ended up too small because I had a 1.5cm allowance there but I used less than 1cm when sewing the binding on. The finish is a bit bulky as well, I think I will go back and bind them with a single fold bias strip.

A few tips for putting this together that are not mentioned in the instructions:

  • I stitched darts and pleats and then overlocked everything but neckline (there’s a facing there), armholes (bias binding) and hem (overlocked all around after front and back are sewn together)
  • Step 3 asks you to baste the dress on top of the side panel on the placement lines and then baste them together following the seam lines.  I did that on my muslin but then decided to only pin the inner edges instead of the first basting, otherwise you can’t baste the seam lines because the placement lines and seam lines are very close together at the sides. This probably sounds very confusing without having the pieces in front of you.

    burda2

    Left: dress on top of the right panel. The dress has the edges folded under and they extend all the way to the edges of the panel. Right: dress and panel seam lines basted

  • After step 3 and 4 I stitched in the ditch along the waist seam to secure the panel and keep it from moving around.
    burda3
  • You might want to interface the zip opening

I didn’t buy the September issue and I don’t think I’ll buy October either, but I have plenty of old issues I want to use. Stay tuned for more Burda goodies! 🙂

 

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