Patrones twopiecesetacular

I started working on this set a long long time ago (I can still remember 🙂 ), right after Alder and before the cuffed shorts. I had it in mind for a while and then Sophie started talking about two piece sets. I loved this cotton silk voile and I wasn’t sure if I would wear a white dress too often, so a deux pieces was the answer!

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The fabric was a gift from a friend I met online. She came to London two months ago and we finally met IRL ☺. Thank you, Olga!
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As I said, the fabric is a cotton silk voile and I had to underline it for decency. This meant extra work – I had to cut each piece twice and baste the layers together. All the seams are french or hand flat felled and the hems and bias bindings around the neck and arms are slip stitched to the underlining.
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I didn’t know how to use interfacing when underlining was involved,so I skipped it and use narrow ribbon for the pocket openings.
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Both patterns are from a Patrones magazine, I used size 44 but I think 40 would’ve worked better, for the blouse at least. I didn’t have enough fabric for the button placket and cuffs. The placket would get lost in the print anyway, but I am a bit sad I didn’t have enough for the cuffs.
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I didn’t get to wear the set more than once, August was very cold this year. But I did wear the top a few times, it looks nice with skinny trousers (and there’s a spotty pair I need to show you)
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Burda 6/2010 cuffed shorts

This was the most challenging project I’ve worked on lately. There were so many things that went wrong from the beginning, I’m amazed I didn’t give up.

I’ll make a summary here, using a numbered list. I didn’t count them before, it will be a surprise for me too 🙂

1. Cutting – I only had 60 cm of this black cotton sateen and I carefully placed all my pattern pieces on it to see if I had enough fabric. Lucky for me (or not?) I’m so short that 60 cm is enough for a pair of shorts. Well, almost enough, because there wasn’t enough to include seam allowances in the back legs. But that wasn’t that big of a problem.

2. Cutting – because of fabric constraints again, I had to cut the belt loops separately. sewing the belt loops in one piece and cutting them after is so much easier.

 

3. Welt pockets – I applied the fusible interfacing for the welt pockets after sewing the dart. The fabric wasn’t laying flat, you can imagine the result. 

4. Front pockets – Burda usually has you cut the pocket facing in one piece from the main fabric. But since I didn’t have enough fabric, I slashed that piece and cut it from both the main fabric and lining. I probably messed up the seam allowances, because the back pocket pieces turned out huge compared to the front ones.

5. Front pockets – I applied interfacing on the right side of the fabric. I realised this soon enough, I was able to rip it up and press it on the wrong side.

6. I remember unpicking some seams, not sure where and why, but you can never forget unpicking seams in black fabric.

7. There is that weird pulling on the right front. I think I used a longer wider allowance when I sewn the waistband to that part of the front, where the drag lines start.

8. I almost forgot this one – the welts are different sizes, one is wider than the other.

I would say 8 is not a  lot, but not too little either. Still, despite that drag line, I see these shorts as very wearable. I think they look pretty good considering what I went through making them. The fly gave me a bit of trouble as well, I don’t enjoy sewing zip flies (is that the plural?), but it turned out ok. I used Jen’s tutorial, but I will try another one next time. I hand sewn the top of the cuffs to the pants, so they don’t sag and/or get out of shape in the wash. 

I had two cuffed shorts patterns in my Burda collection. The other one didn’t have the pleats and were shorter. I chose this pattern because they are very similar to a RTW pair I love. They are the exact same length – they end exactly were my thighs get slimmer 😀

see those drag lines? not visible in every image i have, but very visible here.

I wanted to wear that belt but somebody else had other plans 🙂