Pattern Review had a shirt dress contest recently and I had the perfect fabric for one. I bought this gorgeous Amy Butler print almost 3 years ago, planning to make a McCalls 6696. My plans rarely turn into reality, so the fabric has waited patiently in a cupboard. Which is not too bad, because I don’t want a M6696 anymore, I wanted something more relaxed like S8014.
I didn’t want to bother toiling the Simplicity pattern so I started with a Burda pattern which I altered slightly to look more like the Simplicity one.
I used 38 for neck, collar, armholes and 40 from the bust down. I usually trace 36 for shoulders but the pattern started at 38. It’s still good and if I ever get to make some shirts using this pattern I will probably leave it as it is.
I did a 1/2″ forward shoulder and for the sway back I just shaved a 1/4 wedge of the back and yoke seam at the centre, tapering to nothing at the armscye. I shaved another 1/4 on the yoke on the armscye side both front and back for sloping shoulder (this actually brought the back yoke seam to the original shape) . This change made my armhole smaller and I forgot to remove some from the sleeve cap, so I had A LOT of sleeve to ease in
I made the skirt 2.5″ shorter than the pattern and faced the hem with a 3″ wide facing. The pattern included instructions for a D ring belt, I like the idea of having more than just a tie belt/sash so I made one too. I interfaced both sides and did 4 rows of top stitching to give it more body. I like the dress with or without a belt and I thin it will work with any shop bought belt since there are so many colours in the print.
The fabric has a stripe design running along the length which I have used on the button bands, the collar edge, the sleeve cuffs and the pocket top. I would’ve used it on the belt too but I only had 2.5m and the fabric was narrow so I didn’t have enough left to place the belt on a stripe.
I felt clever and made the buttonholes horizontal. I thought that it makes more sense to have them in the direction the buttons are pulling, but I didn’t think how difficult it would be to make sure the button bands are aligned. The fronts can shift left-right and the underband can be seen, which is very visible with the stripe peeking out.
The print reminds me of a tapestry my grandmother had on a wall in the room I used to spend my summers as a child. I’ve asked my aunts for a picture but sadly the tapestry is gone 😦
The collar stand looks like it’s collapsing. I’ve moved the button 2 times, but I thin maybe the buttonhole should be higher? Do you have any tips for a proudly standing collar stand? 😀